June 19, 2007
Tuesday
Day 1
Forty-one members of the Seattle Peace Chorus met at SeaTac airport at 9:30am to begin the check-in process for our trip to Venezuela. It was speedy and efficient, and then to the gate for the wait for our plane. We were entertained there by a children’s choir from Uganda, and we sang “Mathisi” for them in return. Then they danced for us, and we sang “Nkosi” for them. It was a moving experience as the group covered their hearts with their hands. Once on board a very full airplane, the pilots flew us close to Mt. Rainier, a beautiful sight.
We hopped off the plane in Houston at 5:00 and onto an air-conditioned bus headed to St. Mark’s United Methodist Church, where we were met by Pastor Marilyn. Her church, along with the Committee for Justice and Peace, welcomed us for an hour concert. It was well received and we were treated to a most welcome snack of fruit, vegetables, bread and tuna fish. Little did we know it would be the last fresh fruit we would eat in quite a while!
I met a woman there named Carrie, who was very involved in the Green Party. Her husband is from Iran, and her daughter, aged 22, is currently visiting relatives there. She was hoping that her daughter would return back to the US before Pres. Bush declared war there.
Then back to the airport for a spontaneous concert in the waiting area with guitar, fiddle, shakers, sopranino recorder with dancing (Sabina, 9 and Sophie, 7 joined us – they had a Venezuelan mother and a North American father, who was a missionary in Valencia) and singing. Onto the plane at midnight, and we arrived in Caracas about 6:00am, losing 3 hours total in our trip from Seattle.
June 20, 2007
Wednesday
Day 2
After a night of no sleep, we arrived to high temperatures and high humidity and a 4 hour layover before our plane to Isla de Margarita would take off. We were swarmed by black market money-changers, who offered us a good rate of exchange, in fact, much better than the banks would give us. $3400 bolivares to $1. Bank=$2100 to $1. It became a matter of conscience for us to avoid the black marketers, who horde US dollars and then will make a killing when inflation hits Venezuela again, as it is likely to. It’s something we dealt with on our entire trip. Black marketers are very convenient, and at every street corner, while ATM’s didn’t work, going to a money exchange office was very time-consuming, and were only open short hours. So what to do? It was a dilemma!
Most people at the airport didn’t speak English and we muddled through and walked the airport corridors. It was here that I learned that in most places, especially fast food or cafeteria type restaurants, that the customer pays first to a person in a little booth, and then takes a ticket to get their order. Before I learned this, it took me 5 tries to get a cup of coffee. But it was worth the effort. The coffee was the best I have ever had, with chocolate overtones, thick and rich, without bitterness. I learned to drink it “con leche” which was even better.
Among the stores and restaurants in the airport: Hello Kitty, Cinnabon, Benihana Sushi, Dominoes Pizza, and TGI Fridays. No Starbucks! We met a delightful children’s choir, Ninos Sonata, and we formed a fast friendship with them, which was to last throughout the duration of the festival. They sang for us, and we for them.
A short flight brought us to Isla de Margarita, a desert-like island off the coast of Venezuela. Bouganvilla, cactus, and flowers which I didn’t recognize lined the streets. We were quite disappointed in the buildings that we passed to the hotel, which were uninspiring and unattractive in their architecture. Our hotel, the Marabelle, in the main town of Porlamar was also disappointing, very run down, with no hot water, and as it turned out, no water at all for much of the time, and no amenities. But it just added to our sense of adventure.
We ate lunch at 2:30, starving since we hadn’t eaten since 6:30 or so that morning, a meal of spaghetti, white bread (which is a staple here), fish, and fresh salad, which all but the most stalwart avoided. Boy, did it taste delicious after 24 hours of airplane food and snacks. Then napping, relaxing, visiting and some choral practice before getting into our concert dress (black velvet and stockings for women, and tropical shirts and black pants for men – HOT!) and a trip to the Ramon Brita performing Arts Center. We performed with 2 children’s choirs, the first in green t-shirts, a group including some disabled kids (absolutely beautiful and inspiring!), and the second in red t-shirts, our darling Ninos Sonatas. Then two adult choirs, including Antonio Jose de Sucre. At last we performed (apparently, the closing choirs are the honored choirs): “Si Somos”, Shenandoah, The Storm, Sicut, Nkosi, and This Little Light of Mine as an encore. A Cuban women’s choir, Voca Luna, ended the night. They took 1st place, we were 2nd and the Ninos took 3rd. We were thrilled!
Back “home” for chicken, rice, plantains, salad (untouched) and white bread at 11pm. It was Karen Ernst’s birthday and after we sang, two Spanish renditions were sung to her, quite beautifully. Since the hotel was filled with choruses, it was like a symphony orchestra of voices.
In bed after a long 48 hours with no sleep, and the bed felt wonderful!
June 21, 2007
Sunday
Day 3
The alarm woke us up at 7:00am, and to a breakfast of great coffee and good-looking pastry at Saint Germain Panaderia near the hotel. We boarded two air-conditioned buses for an excursion to Parque National de Laguna de la Restinga. For Dennis and me, this was the only experience with air-conditioned buses; the rest were all “au naturel”.
Martha Cohen had arranged this trip late the night before by walking to a travel agency, and meeting someone there who gave her Marcello’s name. She contacted him at 10:00pm. Thank you Martha.
Marcello, our driver (Raphael was in the other bus) is very opposed to Chavez. His arguments are that crime is up since Chavez took office, that the poor are lazy and now getting things handed to them, and that there is a lot of teen pregnancy. He admitted that health care and education had improved. We heard from the other bus that Raphael is pro-Chavez. Just like the US, a divided opinion on government.
Once there, we boarded 6 person boats with canvas roofs for a trip meandering through a mangrove “forest”, via different channels with names like The Tunnel Of Love rides in amusement parks (ie. Canal de Besos – Canal of Kisses). Oysters attach themselves to the roots of the trees, as well as starfish and anemones. We found a seahorse laden with little seahorses, so it must have been the dad. Pelicans on the shore were waiting to pounce on a school of sardines. Red crabs poked along the roots as well.
Back on shore, and after a refreshing drink (we turned down the gelatinous mango snack in paper cups), we were off for a mini-tour of the island, stopping at El Morro restaurant near Mangillo. Several swam in the ocean, and ornithologist Dan Froehlich helped us identify many birds including the frigate with her white tuxedo shirt on, the colorful cara cara and the very rare yellow oriole. Lots of black vultures, osprey, tropical mocking birds and ground doves as well. Beach combing turned up beautiful pieces of coral and sea urchin shells, bits of glass, agates as well as some garbage. The landscape looked like Arizona with many varieties of cactus. We had a view of Islas Coche (where Chavez was taken in the 2002 coup attempt) and Caragua. A ride back to Palomar close to the beach, and we arrived in time for a lunch of cole slaw, rice, beef (?) stew and white bread. A bit of relaxation before rehearsal at 4:30.
The weather, though hot, is not unbearable due to late afternoon breezes off the Caribbean. And finally: hot water! There is a program to curtail energy use every afternoon and at night, but we finally discovered that we needed to turn a switch to have hot water when the water is on.
Our rehearsal was in a breeze-less alcove on the grounds. We were wilted by 6:00pm. Fortunately, we wore our travel costume, a black Aloha shirt and khaki pants. Tonight, we added “Louisiana” to our program and deleted “The Storm is Passing Over”. We sang in the town of Anuncion, with cobbled streets and more antiquated architecture, and a town square. It was charming, but we didn’t have time to enjoy it. The auditorium was smaller than the night before. There were only five groups that sang and we were the last. The 4th group was quite good with a very serious woman “professore”, who was dramatic in her introduction (though I didn’t understand a word of it, her seriousness came through) of each piece and composer and the geography of Venezuela. The 3 string players in her group were exceptional, especially the young requinta player. Most of the groups were accompanied by a guitar-like instrument of sorts.
We began with “Si Simos” which pleased the crowd. But the audience erupted after “Louisiana” and was especially responsive to Tim Hoffman, our tenor. A rock star was born! Then Bach’s “Sicut” and finally “This Little Light of Mine”, with audience participation. Again the audience was on its feet and when we tried to sit down, and the MC tried to wrap things up, they yelled for us to do “otre” (another) and so we performed “Nkosi”. To say the chorus got a warm reception would be an understatement. Tim and Fred, our director, were treated like Venezuela Idols! Even “la professore”, so serious and studious, was most effusive in her praise.
Perhaps the response is so positive because we have come so far, or that we are a unique group here (the only non-Latino singers ) or that our repertoire is so different from theirs, or because we are in anti-Chavez territory and everything about the US is considered good here on the island! Or perhaps we are really singing at our best, despite exhaustion, sickness (the SPC plague has hit the group – fever, sore throat, cough, headache and dizziness) and the heat. Even when we rehearse, people line up to listen to us. It is amazing.
The Venezuela sound is full of “ponpons” and bim bims”, fast lyrics, romantic words; and the epitome of a good chorus is one that can sing “jojopos”, a Venezuelan folk song marked by percussive lower voices. Since our repertoire includes “Shenandoah” and other lyrical folk songs, our sound is quite different. The crowds love Negro Spirituals and Gospel music, and in return, it has been delightful hearing groups do this type of music in English with their Spanish accents.
We hardly needed the buses to get us home! We practically glided on the many accolades and praises from our new American brothers and sisters in song. We gathered in the cabana to celebrate Kris Zawissa’s 50th birthday with cake and song. One group dispersed with Marcello to a seafood restaurant and the rest of us had spaghetti and chicken at 11:00pm.
June 22, 2007
Friday
Day 4
Up early, some with Andy Bereson to the north shore of the island for snorkeling, some of us to the Cloud Forest with Dan, and the rest to stay at the hotel or explore the town. Thanks Andy and Dan for arranging these trips. A few more of us have begun coughing, with sore throat and fever, so several stayed near the pool. Dennis and I searched for coffee before our trip with Dan, and on our journey, found a Hooters at a nearby mall. There are many, many US stores and products. Venezuela imports some 80% of all goods, so their import of Asian and US goods is reflected in what is available. We rode by taxi to the Cerro de Copey National forest (or the Cloud Forest), a lush tropical area in the mountains near Porlamar for a 2.2 mile (some went further) hike. We saw fern trees and many tropical plants that were huge: philadendron, ficus trees, impatiens, and bromeliads. The road was concrete and ascended to 8,000’. The views were marvelous, the air was fresh and cooler with strong breezes, and the birdcalls were abundant. What a joy to listen to the great variety of birds and spot many as well. Recognized birds were: barred ant shrike, banana quit, chacalate, vultures, red legged honey creepers, vireos, hummingbirds (there are 120 varieties in Venezuela), and several good sightings of the manaquen bird, who has a most interesting mating ritual. The males present an intricate dance to the females, and mentor one or two juvenile males who join in to make the dance even better. The female chooses the best dancer, and since the young males do not get their adult plumage until 9 years old of age, they got lots of years to practice.
Rae Wu, Lee Gresko, and Rosalyn Schiller continued to the end of the road. We were told at the outset that we would need to stop 100 m. from the top and that the TV station was off limits. And so when the 3 women arrived at the end of the road, they were not surprised to see a guard who blocked their way. But when a group of school children on a field trip lined up to go inside the station, our intrepid trio followed them in. The station was called Venevision. They took pictures without any problem.
The taxis were waiting when we arrived back to the parking lot and our driver drove us through Anuncion by a different route to let us see other parts of the town that we had missed the night before. Back to the hotel for a lunch of beef strew, arepas (the Venezuelan national bread, a cornmeal patty that is deep fried) and rice. Carbs, carbs, carbs! I have been surprised at the lack of fresh fruit (none) and the salads were discontinued after the 2nd day. And no desserts! Ever! However I must admit that the food does taste good and the staff in the dining room is warm and friendly.
Time for a shower before rehearsal (the water was turned on!) and to the bus by 6:00pm. However, our bus was delayed, and our 6:30 scheduled arrival time at the concert venue came and went and we did not arrive until after 7:00pm. We missed the first two choral performances, but did hear Universidad de Oriente (a University choir), a children’s choir and a great working class choir from Caracas. This group rehearses during their lunch hours (usually 2 hours daily).
We sang “Si Somos”, always a crowd-pleaser, Shenandoah, Coro de Paz (Doug Balcom’s beautiful composition), Wimohweh and This Little Light of Mine. We exited the stage still singing with the crowd joining in, and they were all on their feet. Again, the response was overwhelming.
One man told me, “You have a good message”. A woman said, “You are like a fresh wind of peace blowing across the land”. There was much visiting, exchanging names and hugs and kisses all around.
Back to the hotel for a dinner of potato salad, a pasta dish, and white bread! A song exchange session ensued with SPC teaching Si Somos and Shenandoah. Many parties tonight. And early to bed for some.
June 23, 2007
Saturday
Day 5
Up early and to the bus at 7:00am in concert dress. Grabbed a quick breakfast of cereal bars and juice in the lobby of the hotel. A hot and sticky day. Off to an historic church, Eglesia Virgen de Valle, from the 16th century, for a morning concert of sacred song. Only a few of the choruses were invited and we were honored to be one of them. The acoustics were beautiful and the music lovely.
It was beastly hot inside with high humidity, the hottest I have been on the trip so far, or perhaps in my entire life! My violin bit the dust here, with moisture on the bow and a warped bridge. We sang Precious Lord, Lacrimosa (with a very squeaky violin accompaniment), and Sicut. Back to the hotel and free time. I packed for the next day and Dennis ran support team errands – breakfast for tomorrow, ferry tickets, and phone calls for Jeff Carter. Rehearsal at 4:30, getting “Let America Be America” ready for tonight. Then dinner (which was delayed due to cessation of water service at the hotel, so no clean dishes) of sautéed veggies, cabbage salad, white bread, potatoes and beef with mushroom gravy. Into our hot, formal concert dress and onto the grand finale choral concert. It was very formal, and everyone was dressed nicely. It began with a huge opening number including many singers, dancers, instruments and speeches honoring some dignatary music directors, festival personnel, and judges.
Ted and Justin Hunter relaxed on a freshly painted wall on their way into the concert hall, getting white paint all over their black dress pants. So some last minute preparations – Ted turned his pants inside out, and Dennis loaned Justin his pants – and we were good to go. We performed at 10:30 pm, the third group, with “Si Somos”, Shenandoah, Louisiana, Let America with percussionists, Lacrimosa (a capella), and This Little Light as an encore. Then presentations were done and awards given. We took first place in the popular vote, “The People’s Choice” award, for “Si Somos Americanos”. We were amazed, shocked and honored. Our competition was so stiff! But the Venezuelans so appreciated our coming and our message of peace and person-to-person diplomacy, a different face of the United States than has been presented in the media. A very tired and bedraggled group arrived back at the hotel at 1:00am for a few short hours of sleep.
The Venezuelans were very respectful of their elder musicians (directors, professors, etc.) and they obviously love their children. The children were wonderful! A 4 year old boy knew every word and every note by heart of a long series of welcoming songs and songs celebrating the visiting musicians from Germany, Spain, Finland, Puerto Rico, our group from the US, and of course many areas of Venezuela. In all, we received 2 soapstone dolphin trophies, a sailing ship, a clam shell, and a wood and metal sculpture. Poor Fred! About 20# added to his luggage!
June 24, 2007
Sunday
Day 6
We were on the bus by 5:30am, breakfasting on yogurt, cereal and oj on the bus. Again, thanks to the support staff of Karen Ernst, Mae Bell, Marcia Bennison, Lee Gresko and Dennis Pool for keeping us fed, hydrated, guarding our stuff and running interference. In the ferry terminal for a pod meeting, which was pretty negative, due to a perceived poor performance at last night’s concert, lack of sleep, and some personal issues that needed to be settled.
Dennis and I met Allejandro (9) and Allejandra (15), on the ferry and began a limited conversation with them. We played tic-tac-toe, connect-the-dots and thumb wrestling. We gave them a tic-tac-toe game we brought along and a postcard of Seattle. Singing by various groups all over the boat, napping, dolphin-sighting, and eating. And a fiesta for the last 90 minutes, where Martha Cohen, Martha Baskin, Dayna Littlejohn, Tim Hoffman, Dennis Pool, Sue Hurley Rector and others salsa danced. Carmen Shupe brought out her wood block for Fred to play, and Martha C. had her tambourine. We had a ball, and took our first baby steps singing:
”Viva Venezuela mi patria querida,
Quien la liberto, mi hermano fue
Simon Bolivar! “
This chorus accompanied umpteen verses and was really fun to sing!
Once on land, we met Jojo Farrell, Carolina, Leo, Nestor, (all from Global Exchange), and Orlando, and bus drivers for the first time. We loaded our luggage onto two buses and stopped for lunch near the ferry terminal. Dennis and I shared a bowl of chicken soup, arepas and a beer (which never tasted so good due to the heat). Some had mora, a blackberry or blueberry fruit smoothie. Then we prepared for a 4 hour bus ride (which turned into 7!) on a non air-conditioned bus with uncomfortable seats. We chose the fast bus, as opposed to the slower one which had air conditioning. Our bus was to be faster, because it lacked headlights, and we were under pressure to get to our destination before dark, so we committed to limiting our stops along the way. But somehow we got lost, and thus the prolonged duration of the ride.
At this point, we pulled over, and the “slow” air conditioned bus came back to get us, having an hour earlier delivered its load, since it was no longer safe for us to drive in the dark. A great irony! But all was well once we got to Hotel Rio Chico, in the Barlovento area of Venezuela, along the northern coast, east of Caracas. We had a choice of seafood or chicken for dinner, and we chose the former. Delicious fish, with potatoes or rice and vegetables. We had planned to go to the drumming festival (San Juan Baptista) but since we arrived so late, early to bed and back at it tomorrow.
The motel was a two story affair, with a courtyard filled with caged birds, tortoises and some empty cages as well. One of the birds said “Hola” as I walked by. The rooms were comfortable, the showers were hot, and the beds good.
June 25, 2007
Monday
Day 7
I was up very early before anyone else, so had some time to reflect.
Some random thoughts:
1. Gas is 11cents a gallon in Venezuela. I expected to see oxcarts, bicycles, rickshaws or various transports for getting around. Instead I see cars, motorcycles and scooters. I have seen very few bicycles and so far no skateboards or roller blades.
2. Group traveling is interesting as well as challenging. With 41 people traveling together and adding 6-10 staff from Global Exchange including bus drivers, there are some rough spots. Most of them have to do with lack of communication and getting to know each other. Everyone is exhausted and hot. Many people are becoming ill. So keeping short accounts seems to be the best process. I am also very aware of how fragile a group is. If one of us is injured, or ill, or loses it, all of us are affected. In some ways we are only as strong as the “weakest” member of the group. But I am also surprised at how strong the group process is. People tend to pick up the slack. They rally around those who have faltered. Unloading luggage goes quickly when all pitch in. Water toting is easier when all share the load. We are a healthier group when we buoy up those who are struggling.
3. The landscape along the northern coast of Venezuela from Puerto la Cruz to Curiepe is quite stunning. Lush green foliage and cactus growing up right in the middle of it all. Rugged soaring mountains coming right down to the sea.
4. We are in pro-Chavez country now among the poorer classes. He is their champion. Now that we are in the company of Global Exchange, we are actually seeing some of the poorer areas.
Carol Dansereau and I went for a short walk through the town, down to the river. This was the first place I saw bromeliads growing on telephone lines. We were to see them everywhere for the rest of the trip. We saw several birds, and lots of school children on their way to school.
Breakfast at a Panaderia, and then onto Curipe, an Afro-Venezuelan town, and the center for the African drumming festival and the celebration of St. Juan el Baptista. We sang in the town square and met several great people including Meridee and her mother, hoping to meet up with them again in Caracas for our final concert.
We visited the house where the replica of John the Baptist, as a young child (perhaps 2 or 3 years old) resided during the festival. And then we waited for him to be returned to the church to end the festival.
The parade through the streets was truly remarkable. An undulating sea of people dressed in red and white, pressed together, almost trance-like as they danced and chanted, with several people carrying the statue on their shoulders back to the church. We threw ourselves into the middle of it, pushed up against sweaty bodies, chanting along with our South American brothers and sisters. It was the second time on the trip I experienced being the hottest in my whole life, and it turns out, it was the last time. But it was worth it. This was a once-in-a-lifetime experience and thrilling.
We were all exhausted, sweaty and happy as we boarded the bus for Maracay, a 4 hour plus drive through rain and amazing tropical landscapes with soaring mountains and deep valleys. It reminded me of Kauai. We hit rush hour traffic in Caracas, which gave us a chance to see the city from the freeway, including a 2,000,000 population barrio on the hills surrounding the city with no running water or sewage treatment, and pirated electricity. We also saw gated mansions with red tiled roofs, military installations and much evidence of European and US investments. We arrived late to Hotel Princesa and then out for dinner at 11:00pm. I had chicken and fries
Goodbye to Carol Dansereau and Carmen Shupe! They were picked up at 3:00am for a taxi ride to the airport.
June 26, 2007
Tuesday
Day 8
We met in the lobby at 9:00am and then to a Panaderia for breakfast. I was feeling quite ill, as was Mary Waters. She stayed on the bus, and I did not want to eat anything. While sitting on the sidewalk, I vomited all over myself. Gross! Mortifying! Several people helped me and I got into some fresh clothes, feeling much better. Poor Mary continued to feel ill. I am quite sure it was heat exhaustion that got me. Once we got into a cooler area that day, I felt better. We drove 1 ½ hours to Henri Pittier Park, which was spectacular. The flowers! The foliage! The cool breezes! The windy road! Mary and others really suffered from travel sickness.
We arrived in Choroni-Puerto Columbia, a darling colonial town with pastel painted houses right on the Caribbean. The rooms were really nice with two-tone paint of turquois and gold, and clever rope closets. Dennis went on a birding excursion back to the park and I stayed and rested.
Our hostess at the Posada was Olga who had a pet 7 month old macaw. She told us right at the outset, “no feeding the bird”. Her chef fed us well for the next two days. We began our dinner with a roasted tomato on a bed of sautéed vegetables, topped with cheese, and garnished with a toasted spaghetti noodle that looked like a stem. Delicious! Then a choice of fish or chicken, rice, ragout of vegetables and white bread. Dessert was an extra charge, but some ordered beautiful cakes, tarts and flambes. After our Pod meetings, we strolled to the Malecon, a sea wall, and the center of the town, for some powerful rum drinks, African drums, dancing and jewelry shopping. A late night and partying for some, but for me bed at 10:30.
For those who stayed on the Malecon, a spontaneous concert erupted with African songs and “Si Somos”. A loud heckler emerged from the crowd saying “Go Home!” It was an awkward moment, but others there apologized for him saying he was drunk. Many tried the African drums, and danced.
June 27, 2007
Wednesday
Day 9
Awoke to find that several chorus members are sick with the SPC plague: sore throat, fever, headache, chest cough, sinus pain; and others have traveler’s diarrhea. This is a tough time for everyone. In many ways, it feels like we are falling apart. Tempers are a bit short and members feel miserable. A quarantine has been instigated to separate the ill from the well. I am trusting the strength of the group will prevail.
After a delicious meal with a choice of traditional Venezuelan breakfast, Criolli (with spicy meat, black beans, eggs, white bread with mango jam and butter) or American (cheese, ham, eggs and bread), some of the group are off to Henri Pittier Park again for more bird-watching (army ants and howler monkeys included), some to Chuaro and many stayed home and rested.
Dennis and I chose to go to Chuaro. We traveled by boat, about a 20 minute ride in the Caribbean, past rugged shoreline over tourquois waters. We arrived on a beach with some commercial activity and many tourists and began a walk to Chuaro, a cocoa-producing region. With our wonderful guides Leo, Orlando, Carolina and some of the Posada (guest house)
staff showing us cacao, coffee avacados, breadfruit and many tropical flowers – hibiscus, impatiens, begonias – we followed a river to a tree growing on the shore called “The Tree of Souls”. It was not an unusual tree, but for some reason, it had large head-sized and shaped gnarls that legend says represent each dead soul from upriver. We passed several work parties, including women, who were cutting cacao pods off the tree. Next we came to the town itself where the cocoa beans were being dried in the church plaza. There was not any processing going on, and in fact, the village only has one small grinder. The beans must be processed somewhere else. We tasted a cacao fruit – a white melon-like, sweet substance that surrounds purple seeds, which is the cacao. Tasty! Also, several of us bought chocolate from a shop in town.
We walked a bit past the town to the river where we stripped down to underwear or suits and jumped in – totally refreshing and delicious! And none too soon. Many of us were sinking from the heat. We saw irridescent blue lizards and beautiful butterflies.
Back to the town square to wait for a bus to the beach. We finally gave up and hired a truck to take us back, all standing up like bowling pins. Really fun! Back to the beach and lunch: pasta salad, fresh fruit, bread and Oreos! After enjoying the surf and resting for about an hour, we took our leave to boat back home.
The scenery is breathtaking: white sand beaches washed by deep blue water, jutting mountains rising from the sea, palm trees. Think “Jurassic Park” or “The Lost World”.
On the beach at Puerto Columbia (named for Christopher Columbus who ventured here in 1489), there was a girl’s 15th birthday party celebration in the plaza. There were inflatable jumping houses, piñatas, candy for all, popcorn, drumming and dancing and lots of noise.
Megan, Dennis and I walked to Choroni, about 1 mile up the road, meeting up with Ros and Marcia along the way. I was hoping to use an internet café, but it was closed. Choroni is a darling colonial town, filled with wrought iron window coverings, one lane winding roads, and pastel painted buildings. We had a drink and were entertained by a local 3 year old who brought us her doll and Pooh bear to share. Then a taxi back to town. Once back, we walked quickly to the malecon (sea wall) with Mary to see the sun set. Home to the posada for a dinner of a delicious appetizer of something that looked and tasted like fried cheese sticks with a caramel sauce, fish, rice, white bread, roasted tomato. The food has been really outstanding in this place.
Orlando began a demonstration to show how to carve bowls out of a certain type of gourd, but I had to attend a travel meeting where we talked with Jojo about our time in Caracas coming up towards the end of our trip. We complained a bit about bus travel and communication gaps, and debriefed some issues pertaining to the group.
To bed at 11:00pm.
Today I asked Leo about the role that religion has played in current events in Venezuela. The Catholic Church, as expected, has supported the rich, but the local priests, who have so much contact with the poor, have supported liberation theology in the 80’s and now Chavez. I asked about the Evangelicals (protestants) and Chavez, whom I heard Chavez was courting. Leo didn’t really know but he did say that on late night religious TV, he heard a Baptist (!) preacher. It was the first time he had seen such a thing.
Today was also the first day I really tried to find an internet cafe. I have been too overwhelmed by heat, traveling and illness to try very hard to communicate with my family, and I am feeling concerned about letting them know that we are safe. But the café was closed. This was to be the beginning of a very difficult and frustrating task for me, to somehow connect with our loved ones.
June 28, 2007
Thursday
Day 10
A 7:30 breakfast of empanadas and onto the bus by 8:00. We had a beautiful, though twisty ride through Henri Pittier Park, stopping at the top to take pictures. However, we were in thick clouds so the only pictures we took were mysterious. It was cool and moist. Felt great. Then back through Maracay Through Valencia and three pit stops – one for rest rooms, one for gas and one for lunch. At public restrooms, one can expect to find an attendant who hands out toilet paper for a fee. Otherwise, bring your own. Toilet paper does not get flushed, it gets tossed into a basket.
We shared a rotisserie chicken with Steve and Karen Ernst. Delicious! And then onto Barquisimento. We passed a statue of Maria Lionza, part legend, perhaps a real person who is a nature goddess, protector of the poor, as well as a mystical religious figure. The statue was really something. It was huge and she was riding on a tapir, completely nude and very well built, holding a uterus (!) above her head. This is a growing sect in the region.
We also saw some statuary that was particular to its location that was African in design. The theory is that currents from Africa ran to South America bringing travelers.
Barquisimento is the primary music center for Venezuela so the entrance to the city is decorated by huge replicas of instruments. Traveling straight to a community center, we were welcomed by a group of about 10 young girls who told us their names and kissed us, and by boys on stilts. Fred entertained them by juggling oranges. Then a tour of the facility. Very impressive with adult literacy programs, a TV station, dental clinic, youth center and radio station. The TV station is completely community-run with local citizens suggesting programming that is pertinent to that community. I was particularly struck by a 56 year old woman who is working on her 6th grade education (Mission Robinson). She is working on the basics of reading, writing, math, and spelling. Now there is almost 100% literacy in Venezuela. She was asked how long she would continue her education (possibly through high school – Mission Rivas and even college – Mission Sucre) and she said, “As long as God allows me to.” Obviously this is very important for her.
A local dance school presented a program for us and although we were tired and hungry, it was very enjoyable. The kids were 4-16 years of age with one very skilled guy who was older. We sang “Si Somos”, The Storm and “Nkosi”, then gave the dancers a ride home on the bus on our way to our hotel. Tim made origami peace cranes for two of the girls.
Leo and Nestor entertained us all the way to the hotel. They are informative, funny and great responders to questions.
To the hotel, Principe, very nice with a pool and wide screen TV to watch the soccer match, Argentina 4, USA 1. Dinner altogether at the restaurant. I had beef and was disappointed. We haven’t had good beef since we’ve arrived.
I went to bed early, but Dennis went out with the gang.
June 29, 2007
Friday
Day 11
Up at 5:00am to a hot and humid day. Dennis and I had coffee in the hotel restaurant and played our first game of Spite and Malice on this trip. Then we walked to Plaza Bolivar. Simon Bolivar’s statues, sayings, and name is everywhere in Venezuela. He is the father and liberator of several South and Central American countries, somewhat akin to George Washington. His statues require much respectful behavior, almost as if he were a saint. No immodest clothing near them, no leaning on the pedastle of the statue, no loud talking. The Plaza was beautiful and we saw 2 gorgeous churches and 2 theaters, several gardens, a market and parks. When we got back to the hotel, we were told it wasn’t safe to be wandering around!
Onto the bus by 11:30 and off to Sanare. At one of our stops, I saw 2 young kids eating popsicles in the hot sun. When I asked if I could take their pictures, a young woman who was with them said yes. Then they told a group who gathered about their adventure, and with that, the girl, who was about 9, was encouraged to come on the bus and took all of our pictures with her cell phone. It was delightful!
We went through very dry desert, small towns, rows of irrigated crops (the first agriculture we have seen – Venezuelans import 80% of all products, but in 2 years imports have been decreased by 10%, and some of the land of the wealthy, lying unused, is now under cultivation. The agricultural missions and coops are helping with marketing as well as production) of roses, corn and other vegetables. We saw 3 loads of pigs on their way to market. As we neared Sanare, the landscape greatly changed and we were in Tuscany! Or wine country in California! Lush, rolling hills, cool temperatures, soft breezes, eucalyptus trees and many birds.
We arrived at our Posada Turistica Sanare – a red tiled building that looked like Zorro had lived here. The air is cool and dry. What a relief! Our first relief from heat and humidity since the trip began.
Lunch of pumpkin soup or beef, rice, potatoes and plantains. Then dashed up to the coffee plantation before checking into our rooms, because we were running late.
The plantation, producing Café Café brand, is a cooperative, with 50% of profits going to the owner, 40% to the coop farmers and 10% to community programs. Many boys in the town are tempted to drop out of school and run the streets, going home at night to share what they have begged for with their families. Mentoring or internship programs have begun on the coop to help with this problem.
Chavez is seen as a savior here and people thank God for him. He has helped businesses and the poor and has addressed many of the country’s problems. Ilene, who helped with the coffee tour, is a woman with 3 children who runs an education mission of 92 schools. Before Chavez, only men were educators. In the missions Chavez has begun, women do this job. Perhaps women can get out of the beauty pageant business. (Venezuela boats 4 Miss Worlds, and 5 Miss Universes. Even the village women, no matter their shape, wear low-cut, tight jeans, very low cut tops with spaghetti straps and lots of cleavage – some of it synthetically enhanced – lots of make up, jewelry and dyed hair. It’s really quite a sight! Even older women dress this way. Our guides told us proudly that Venezuelan women are a natural resource! And these people are very progressive, and sensitive to oppression. But this attitude is very deeply seated appartently.)
We sang to close our time at the plantation, in a silo-like storehouse that reverberated with sound. Then delicious coffee and cookies.
On our way back to the Posada, we found a baby bird in the road and then after checking into our rooms, found more in the showers. Dan helped them reunite with their families.
Free time until 6:45 rehearsal. I did laundry!
At rehearsal, Fred assured us that “Let America” will work, with some changes, for our concert in Caracas. There have been some rumblings about doing it. It felt great to work our voices after a few days off.
Then dinner of chicken, “baked” potatoes (we would call them “scalloped”), and plantains. A local cultural group came and performed for us on the patio, dancing and singing. The moon was full and the sky was beautiful. It was a magical night.
June 30, 2007
Saturday
Day 12
Rain sprinkles this morning, just like Seattle! Breakfast of scrambled eggs, fresh fruit, shredded meat, cheese, arepas and juices. Every meal, we have fresh juices at this Posada: a choice of mora (usually blackberry or blueberry), banabana (tastes like pear), or peach. Then off to an education mission in the town center. We met in a small classroom with several social workers, students and teachers. It was an amazing exchange and ended with us singing “Si Somos”, arm in arm with our new Venezuelan friends, tears streaming down faces. Then to listen to a speech by a former minister of culture who stepped down to be in the streets with people, moving towards change. At the end of his speech (which was long!), we sang and presented the minister with a Peace Chorus scarf.
Back to the Posada for a lunch of beef stew and black beans, rice, fresh fruit including cantaloupe, pineapple and papaya, arepas and juice. Free time in town, trying to get on the internet, poking into shops, speaking with the locals. We got caught in a torrential downpour, and walked home soaking wet. Such fun!
Rehearsals for 2 hours on “Let America” and people are feeling very positive about it. Then to a pod meeting for information about our grueling 8 hour drive tomorrow to Caracas. Steve Johnson joined the ranks of the ill today, but others seem to be improving. Hooray!
Dinner was spaghetti, fresh white bread, fruit and juice.
A young man came and entertained us on guitar. The rum was broken out and people just mellowed as they listened to his beautiful love songs.
Sanare is a charming town of winding, narrow streets, lots of grill work on windows and doors and delightful people.
July 1, 2007
Sunday
Day 13
We woke up to sprinkles again and a breakfast of eggs, arepe fresh fruit, cheese and avacado. Then off on the bus to Caracas. Adios Sanare! We loaded all the luggage onto the small bus, put the sick folks on the larger, air conditioned bus (Dave, Jacob, Mary, Judy, Steve J., Steve E., and Fred) and off we went. Stopped for lunch, then shopping at an artisans market and one bano stop and arrived in Caracas at 5:00pm. Fred won the betting pool set up to see when we would arrive. We checked into the King’s Hotel, dropped our suitcases in our rooms and time for a 45 minute rehearsal of “Let America.” Then off to pizza with Eva Golinger. She basically laid out the premise of her book, “The Chavez Code” about the US government’s involvement in the attempted 2002 coup of Chavez and had a question and answer time. Then, praise be, rehearsal cancelled due to exhaustion by everybody and off to bed.
Caracas is a busy, noisy city, similar to Chicago or LA. It was difficult for us to sleep because of all the honking cars, yelling and street noise. The weather is cooler and drier.
July 2, 2007
Monday
Day 14
I woke up crying this morning. Sleep was practically impossible, I am having some intestinal problems, my head hurt and my throat felt funky. I just imagined that I was sick and going to miss the concert. But after an Alleve, 2 cups of Venezuelan coffee and a prayer that I would focus on the positive, I am doing better. Dennis and I ran to the Farmatado to get Fred some antibiotics (Karen Ernst is in bed today!), played 2 games of Spite and Malice and waited for breakfast.
Dennis went on a field trip to the botanical gardens and I went with Steve and Julie Johnson and Ros to find some chocolate at a great shop, exchanging money (a time-consuming affair that includes a thumb print) and taking in the sights. Back for a rest. Then off to rehearsal. We hired a 5 piece brass quintet, oboist, keyboard, timpani, conga drummer and maraca player. We worked hard for 3 hours. It is beginning to sound very good, although the hall is not ideal.
Home for some free time and then off to dinner with Barbara, a founder of a grassroots group in opposition to Chavez. She was difficult for me to listen to. She sounded like a neo-con, called Chavez a coward because he had never been wounded in war, etc. But we realized we were there to listen, not to convert her. Several of us had paella. Very good. Then a short stroll to find ice cream and gelato.
July 3, 2007
Tuesday
Day 15
Up early again. What else is new! I guess being in a new country is too exciting for sleeping in. We tried to find the hours posted on the nearest internet café, but it wasn’t available. I am so frustrated to not find any way to communicate with my family. Then on a quest to get some bolivares, but none of the ATM’s had money. Breakfast was delicious: black beans, an omelette and toast. All the juice in this hotel is wonderful.
Rehearsal for 1 hour and then a Q & A with Greg Wilpert, an analyst of Venezuelan affairs. His website is Venezuelanalysis.com. It was a great way to end our time here with Global Exchange. He was very balanced in his views and did a tremendous job of laying things out for us in an understandable way.
Next came free time! We jogged down to the artisan’s alley, several blocks from the hotel, and met up with another group who had ridden the metro (subway). Lee had her money belt picked out of her purse with her passport and all her money inside. She spent the day getting pictures taken, running to the US embassy only to be rebuffed, told her pictures weren’t the right size and to come back on Friday! So much for friendly embassy service. We, on the other hand, had a great day of shopping, lunch at a cachapa stand (Leo’s favorite: sweet corn pancake filled with ham and melted cheese) and just enough time to change for the concert. On the bus by 3:15 and a quick run through with the orchestra once we arrived at UVC. The concert, which was to have begun at 5:00, was delayed until 5:30.
One of the groups from the Isla de Margarita festival was an a capella jazz sextet led by a University professor. They were so enjoyable to listen to, and so good. The professor also leads a women’s chorus a sextet as well), who we had met at the festival, and they began our program. Their pieces included Redemption Song by Bob Marley and Over the Rainbow. Then we sang “Si
Somos” and “Let America Be America Again”. They both went very well.
Carolina and Nestor introduced “Let America” with Langston Hughes’ poem in Spanish, and we changed the words to one of the phrases in the piece to Spanish as well. Dayna Littlejohn did her alto solo at the end of the piece in Spanish. It seemed much more accessible to the audience with these changes. Sergio did a great job of introducing the pieces, as he did throughout the entire trip, and his narration helped draw the audience in.
The brass quintet performed 2 great pieces. Then we were back onstage for Sicut, Shenandoah, Louisiana, Courage and Viva Venezuela (with Alvoro on the verses and the audience on the chorus). For an encore, the men did Wim eh Weh. The women’s group provided refreshments for us, pina and melon smoothies and “apple pies”, an apple pastry. It was fun to see Gabriel, our singing bus driver and several people from Isla in our audience including Tim and Justin’s friends.
We celebrated on the ride home, then a quick Angel Falls orientation and off to the same restaurant as the previous night for a pod debriefing and dinner. Everyone shared what they would bring back with them from this trip to inform those in the states about what we saw in Venezuela. A Global Exchange person was placed in each group to help to lead the discussion.
Then back to the hotel to repack everything. Those of us continuing onto Angel Falls can only bring backpacks (the rest of the luggage to be stored at the hotel) and everything needs to be wrapped in plastic.
On the way to the restaurant, we saw fireworks, and realized they were from the US embassy celebrating Independence Day, even though it was on the 3rd. We felt some bitterness, knowing how Lee was treated by her own country, and it seemed rather belligerent to have such a show.
July 4, 2007
Wednesday
Day 16
Up at 3:00 and to the lobby by 4:30am. A very short night! Ben, our eco-tour coordinator got us into the airport (we were swarmed by money changers – good rates of exchange (3,500 bolivares to $1 – but these black marketers are making lots of money). The plane was to take off at 7:20, but a tire change delayed us until 8:25am. Markos told me how to make a phone call at these special kiosks at the airport, so I went to the desk only to find that the system was down! What is the deal!! Thwarted at every turn to try to contact my family!
We grabbed some yogurt and waited for our plane to be ready. Shortly before we boarded, a security guard came and got Dennis. He had left his money belt at the counter where he had bought yogurt. Amazing! Perhaps this is why our plane was delayed.
And then the phone system came on so a quick 30 second phone call to my sister to tell her we were fine.
Megan found out from a local that the US embassy expects bribes in order to do business. That is why Lee got nowhere. Very sad.
We landed in Puerto Ordaz and then onto Canaima on a 21 seat plane. We flew over several rivers, swollen with rainwater, brownish red in color due to the tannins in the foliage along the river. A beautiful sight. Andreas met us and we took a safari truck to the park headquarters and repacked – all clothes in plastic bags, and changed into clothes we would get wet. Then up the road where we climbed into boars, 2 seats wide, 6 seats long and up the river we began. We stopped part way for the canoes to go through waters too dangerous for us, so we hiked a bit, had some ham sandwiches, cookies and water while we waited for the boats. We met with a mostly English group of guys and we sang “Mathisi” for them. Then back onto the river. Amazing views of tepui (table mesasa jutting out of dense jungle), and waterfalls galore. We got wet from the river and soaked from a heavy rain. We saw our first views of Angel Falls – awesome! Inspiring! We pulled into camp right beneath the falls, cold and soaking wet, and were welcomed with a cup of hot coffee, and we quickly changed into dry clothes. A hammock reservation was in order, and since there were other groups in camp, all hammocks were soon spoken for.
Dinner of grilled chicken on a pit, stuck into the ground and roasted by the fire, cole slaw, coke, rice, melon and white bread. Sat around and sang with German and Italian campers. To bed early, 9:00pm and boy did that hammock feel good – cozy and comfy.
July 5, 2007
Thursday
Day 17
Up fairly early. Poor Andy Bereson was sick during the night – vomiting and miserable. The rest of us enjoyed a breakfast of scrambled eggs, arepas, ham and cheese, coffee. We said goodbye to Lee who traveled back to Caracas to take care of her missing passport. Then off to the other side of the Churun River for a hike to the base of the falls with Andreas and Tulio. I cannot begin to describe how lovely, breathtaking and beautiful the falls, surrounding jungle, the river and the sky are. The hike however, was somewhat challenging because of the roots across the path. In fact, the path consisted of roots and a bit of mud. Hardly any soil. We came upon an army of fire ants, and we ran quickly through their highway so as not to disturb them. The jungle plants were beautiful. We were dripping wet when we reached the viewpoint, not from sweat, but from humidity. When we reached the base of the falls, we all ooh-ed and aah-ed as the falls appeared through breaks in the clouds. Magnificent! What handiwork of the Creator. Never did I think I would see the tallest waterfall in the world!
We hiked back down and plunged into the river to cool off, viewing the falls in the distance. It doesn’t get much better than this.
How could anyone look at these mighty wonders and not be awed by God’s magnificent creativity. As I write this, I am observing a beautiful sunset here in Venezuela. Another reminder of God’s great gift to us of this earth.
Back to camp for lunch of spaghetti and melon. Then we packed up and off on down the river with beautiful views, a portage through pui pui clouds (biting black flies), rain and soaking rapids. Once in Canaima, we walked to the falls that have been harnassed for electric power. A truck ride back to camp to pick up our stuff, drink some hot coffee or tea, and change into dry clothes.
Our posada, the Kurasi, was a bit down the road from headquarters. The rooms were very comfortable and clean though unpleasantly hot. Cool showers, which felt wonderful, long thick towels, soft sheets and good mattresses. A wide veranda surrounded the entire building with decorative pottery on the stone walls. We rested a bit before dinner and then back to the main camp on an open-air truck underneath star lit skies. Fireflies accompanied us.
Dinner was chicken filet, vegetables, potatoes and bread. Andreas, our guide, told us several legends and facts about the area. He was a colorful guy who loved to talk, had a great sense of humor, and a love for the area.
In bed by 9:00! Dennis is not feeling well, and Karen, Steve and Megan are still running fevers. Andy is recuperating.
July 7, 2007
Friday
Day 18
Up very early enjoying a flock of noisy birds. The flowers in the camp were beautiful – yellow hibiscus, halaconi, fuschia, huge blossed trees, small yellow “daisies”, lavendar pom poms, red shrubs. The red dirt and the Gran Sabana are reminiscent of the African savannah, and add some credence to the theory that South America and Africa were once a huge, single continent, that split and drifted.
The village streets are lined with deep ditches that take care of the rain that comes almost daily during this season. We saw several people taking warm rain showers when we drove by in the rain yesterday.
A ride into headquarters for a great breakfast of pancakes, fried eggs, ham and cheese, coffee and tea. Then off to Salto Sapo (Toad Falls) by boat through the lagoon and a walk up a great trail, then strip down to our swim suits and shoes to walk under the falls where “The Last of the Mohicans” was filmed. It was exhilarating! Then we walked to the top of the falls. A great way to end our trip. A hike back to the boat and then back to camp by the 3 palm trees standing in the lagoon, a picture of which graces the front of the Lonely Planet Travel Guide for Venezuela. We stopped by the souvenier shop on our way to our posada and did some last minute shopping. Then packed up and off to lunch. The pui puis were fierce while we waited for the truck. They especially loved Dennis, who was not feeling well again due to the heat.
Lunch was chicken and veggies over rice, cole slaw and coke. And we say goodbye to Andreas, Tulio and Antonio with a scarf, a tip and a goodbye song of “Si Somos”. A short ride to the airport and then it was a very hectic scramble to get on planes. Dennis and I ended up on a 6 seater, very loud with a 70 year old pilot, but the views were great and the air calm. Landing in Puerto Ordaz – time for a dish of ice cream. Goodbye to Nikki who is on her way to Ciudad Bolivar to meet up with Jeff and Dan for a 10 hour overnight bus ride towards Roraimo (one of the tepuis bordering Guyana). And the rest of us are off to Caracas.
Ben was waiting for us when we arrived and off to the Santiago Hotel, where we were reunited with our stored luggage. Dinner was at the outdoor restaurant across the street (baby pork ribs – Cuban style, rice, beans, and wonderful fried plantains), and then back for a farewell rum drink on the veranda. A pleasant evening.
July 7, 2007
Saturday
Day 19
Up at 4:00am and downstairs in the lobby by 5:00, and via 2 Mercedes vans to the airport. It was a short trip, unlike the trip from the airport to the hotel the day before, which took 25 minutes! Unloaded our bodies and our stuff and passed through all the hoops successfully. We said goodbye to Sue Hurley Rector who was on a Delta flight via Atlanta! Goodbye intrepid Presidente! Immigration was no problem, and we were not asked for our inoculation records. We weren’t asked for them coming into Venezuela, either.
The ride to Houston was uneventful, with a hot breakfast sandwich served and two movies: “My Dog Skip”, and another movie later, which I can’t remember. Then a quick run to our connecting flight. No time for a phone call or a Starbucks. We met up with a large contingency of singers from Bellingham who had been in Ecuador for two weeks traveling on a good will mission. Such a small world. Many of them had been at our Bellingham concert in 2006 for the Mozart Requiem.
Lunch of pizza and a green salad. We inhaled the iceberg lettuce with dressing. Never has a salad tasted so good. The movie was “Catch and Release”.
Dennis’ leg was quite swollen and hot from bug bites. He still wasn’t feeling well, so began on his Cipro.
As we waited for our luggage we sang for our Bellingham friends and they sang for us, and then we sang together. A serendipitous ending to a most wonderful adventure! Ah, the power of music!
