July 4, 2007

Wednesday

Day 16

 

Up at 3:00 and to the lobby by 4:30am.  A very short night!  Ben, our eco-tour coordinator got us into the airport (we ere swarmed by money changers – good rates of exchange (3,500 bolivares to $1 – but these black marketers are hording US dollars to use later).  The plane was to take off at 7:20, but a tire change delayed us until 8:25am.  Markos told me how to make a phone call at these special kiosks at the airport, so I went to the desk only to find that the system was down!  What is the deal!!  Grabbed some yogurt and waited.  Shortly before we boarded, a security guard came and got Dennis.  He had left his money belt at the counter where he had bought yogurt.  Amazing!  Perhaps this is why our plane was delayed.

 

And then the phone system came on so a quick 30 second phone call to my sister to tell her we were fine. 

 

Megan found out from a local that the US embassy expects bribes in order to do business.  That is why Lee got no where.  Very sad.

 

We landed in Puerto Ordaz and then onto Canaima on a 21 seat plane.  We flew over several rivers, swollen with rainwater, brownish red in color due to the tannins in the foliage along the river.  A beautiful sight.  Andreas met us and we took a safari truck to the park headquarters and repacked – all clothes in plastic bags, and changed into clothes we would get wet.  Then up the road where we climbed into boats, 2 seats wide, 6 seats long and up the river we began.  We stopped part way for the canoes to go through waters too dangerous for us, so we hiked a bit, then had some ham sandwiches, cookies and water while we waited for the boats.  We met with a mostly English group of guys and we sang “Mathisi” for them. Then back onto the river.  Amazing views of tepui (table mesas jutting out of dense jungle), waterfalls galore.  We got wet from the river and soaked from a heavy rain.  We saw our first views of Angel Falls – awesome!  Inspiring!  We pulled into camp right beneath the falls, cold and soaking wet,  and were welcomed with a cup of hot coffee, and we quickly changed into dry clothes.  A hammock reservation was in order, and since there were other groups in camp, all hammocks were soon spoken for. 

 

Dinner of grilled chicken on a pit, stuck into the ground and roasted by the fire, cole slaw, coke, rice, melon and white bread.  Sat around and sang with German and Italian campers.  To bed early, 9:00pm and boy did that hammock feel good – cozy and comfy. 

 

July 5, 2007

Thursday

Day 17

 

Up fairly early.  Poor Andy Bereson was sick during the night – vomiting and miserable.  The rest of us enjoyed scrambled eggs, arepas, ham and cheese, coffee.  We said goodbye to Lee who traveled back to Caracas to take care of her missing passport.  Then off to the other side of the Churun River for a hike to the base of the falls with Andreas and Tulio.    I cannot begin to describe how lovely, breathtaking and beautiful the falls, surrounding jungle, the river and the sky are.  The hike however, was somewhat challenging because of the roots across the path.  In fact, the path consisted of roots and a bit of mud.  Hardly any soil.  We came upon an army of fire ants, and we ran quickly through their highway so as not to disturb them.  The jungle plants were beautiful.  We were dripping wet when we reached the viewpoint, not from sweat, but from humidity.  When we reached the base of the falls, we all ooh-ed and aah-ed as the falls appeared through breaks in the clouds.  Magnificent!  What handiwork of the Creator.  Never did I think I would see the tallest waterfall in the world!

 

We hiked back down, meeting up with our fire ant friends again, and this time I got bit.   Plunged into the river to cool off, viewing the falls in the distance.  It doesn’t get much better than this. 

 

How could anyone look at these mighty wonders and not be awed by God’s magnificent creativity.  As I write this, I am observing a beautiful sunset here in Venezuela.  Another reminder of God’s great gift to us of this earth.

 

Back to camp for lunch of spaghetti and melon.  Then we packed up and off on down the river with beautiful views, a portage through "pui pui" clouds (biting black gnats), rain and soaking rapids. Once in Canaima, we walked to the falls that have been harnessed for electric power.  A truck ride back to camp to pick up our stuff, drink some hot coffee or tea, and change into dry clothes.

 

Our posada, the Kurasi, was a bit down the road from headquarters.  The rooms were very comfortable and clean though unpleasantly hot.  Cool showers, which felt wonderful, long thick towels, soft sheets and good mattresses.  A wide veranda surrounded the entire building with decorative pottery on the stone walls.  We rested a bit before dinner and then back to the main camp on an open-air truck underneath star lit skies. 

 

Dinner was chicken filet, vegetables, potatoes and bread.  Andreas, our guide, told us several legends and facts about the area.  He was a colorful guy who loved to talk, had a great sense of humor, and a love for the area.

 

In bed by 9:00!  Dennis is not feeling well, and Karen, Steve and Megan are still running fevers.  Andy is recuperating. 

 

July 7, 2007

Friday

Day 18

 

Up very early enjoying a flock of noisy birds.  The flowers in the camp were beautiful – yellow hibiscus, halaconi, fuschia, huge blossed trees, small yellow “daisies”, lavendar pom poms, red shrubs.  The red dirt and the Gran Sabana are reminiscent of the African savannah, and add some credence to the theory that South America and Africa were once a huge continent, that split and drifted. 

 

The village streets are lined with deep ditches that take care of the rain that comes almost daily during this season.  We saw several people taking warm rain showers when we drove by in the rain yesterday. 

 

A ride into headquarters for a great breakfast of pancakes, fried eggs, ham and cheese, coffee and tea.  Then off to Salto Sapo (Toad Falls) by boat through the lagoon and a walk up a great trail, then strip down to our swim suits and shoes to walk under the falls where “The Last of the Mohicans” was filmed.  It was exhilarating!  Then we walked to the top of the falls.  A great way to end our trip.  A hike back to the boat and then back to camp by the 3 palm trees standing in the lagoon.  We stopped by the Souvenier shop on our way to our posada and did some last minute shopping.  Then packed up and off to lunch.  The pui puis were fierce while we waited for the truck.  They especially loved Dennis, who was not feeling well again due to the heat. 

 

Lunch was chicken and veggies over rice, cole slaw and coke.  And we say goodbye to Andreas, Tulio and Antonio with a scarf, a tip and a goodbye song of “Si Somos”.  A short ride to the airport and then it was a very hectic scramble to get on planes.  Dennis and I ended up on a 6 seater, very loud with a 70 year old pilot, but the views were great and the air calm.   Landing in Puerto Ordaz – time for a dish of ice cream.  Goodbye to Nikki who is on her way to Ciudad Bolivar to meet up with Jeff and Dan for a 10 hour overnight bus ride towards Roraimo (one of the tepuis bordering Guyana).  And the rest of us are off to Caracas.

 

Ben was waiting for us when we arrived and off  to the Santiago Hotel, where we were reunited with our stored luggage.  Dinner was at the outdoor restaurant across the street (baby pork ribs – Cuban style, rice, beans, and wonderful fried plantains), and then back for a farewell rum drink on the veranda.  A pleasant evening.