June 21, 2007

Sunday

Day 3

 

The alarm woke us up at 7:00am, and to a breakfast of great coffee and good-looking pastry at Saint Germain Panaderia near the hotel.  We boarded two air-conditioned buses for an excursion to Parque National de Laguna de la Restinga.  For Dennis and me, this was the only experience with air-conditioned buses, the rest were all “au naturel”. 

 

Martha Cohen had arranged this trip late the night before by walking to a travel agency, and meeting someone there who gave her Marcello’s name.  She contacted him at 10:00pm.  Thank you Martha. 

 

Marcello, our driver (Raphael was in the other bus) is very opposed to Chavez.  His arguments are that crime is up since Chavez took office, that the poor are lazy and now getting things handed to them, and that there is a lot of teen pregnancy now.  He admitted that health care and education had improved. We heard from the other bus that Raphael is pro-Chavez.  Just like the US, a divided opinion on our government. 

 

 Once there, we boarded 6 person boats with canvas roofs for a trip meandering through a mangrove “forest”, via different channels with names like The Tunnel Of Love rides in amusement parks (ie. Canal de Beso – Canal of Kisses).    Oysters attach themselves to the roots of the trees, as well as starfish and anemones.  We found a seahorse laden with little seahorses, so it must have been the dad.  Pelicans on the shore were waiting to pounce on a school of sardines.  Red crabs poked along the roots as well.

 

Back on shore, and after a refreshing drink (we turned down the gelatinous mango snack in paper cups), we were off for a mini-tour of the island, stopping at El Morro restaurant near Mangillo. Several swam in the ocean, and ornithologist Dan Froehlich helped us identify many birds including the frigate with her white tuxedo shirt on, the colorful cara cara and the very rare yellow oriole.  Lots of black vultures, osprey, tropical mocking birds and ground doves as well.  Beach combing turned up beautiful pieces of coral and sea urchin shells, bits of glass, agates as well as some garbage.  The landscape looked like Arizona with many varieties of cactus.  We had a view of Islas Coche (where Chavez was taken in the 2002 coup attempt) and Caragua.  A ride back to Palomar close to the beach, and we arrived in time for a lunch of cole slaw, rice, beef (?) stew and white bread.  A bit of relaxation before rehearsal at 4:30. 

 

The weather, though hot, is not unbearable due to late afternoon breezes off the Caribbean.  And finally:  hot water!  There is a program to curtail energy use every afternoon and at night, but we finally discovered that we needed to turn a switch to have hot water when the water is on. 

 

Our rehearsal was in a breeze-less alcove on the grounds.  We were wilted by 6:00pm. Fortunately, we wore our travel costume, a black Aloha shirt and khaki pants.   Tonight, we added “Louisiana” to our program and deleted “The Storm is Passing Over”.  We sang in the town of Anuncion, with cobbled streets and more antiquated architecture, and a town square.  It was charming, but we didn’t have time to enjoy it.  The auditorium was smaller than the night before.  There were only five groups that sang and we were the last.  The 4^th group was quite good with a very serious woman “professore”, who was dramatic in her introduction (though I didn’t understand a word of it, her seriousness came through) of each piece and composer and the geography of Venezuela.  The 3 string players in her group were exceptional, especially the young requinta player.  Most of the groups were accompanied by a guitar-like instrument of sorts.

 

We began with “Si Simos” which pleased the crowd.  But the audience erupted after “Louisiana” and was especially responsive to Tim Hoffman, our tenor.  A rock star was born!  Then Bach’s “Sicut” and finally “This Little Light of Mine”, with audience participation.  Again the audience was on its feet and when we tried to sit down, and the MC tried to wrap things up, they yelled for us to do “otre” (another) and so we performed “Nkosi”.  To say the chorus got a warm reception would be an understatement.  Tim and Fred, our director, were treated like Venezuela Idols!  Even “la professore”, so serious and studious, was most effusive in her praise.

 

Perhaps the response is so positive because we have come so far, or that we are a unique group here (the only non-Latino singers )or our repertoire is so different from theirs, or because we are in anti-Chavez territory and everything about the US is considered good here on the island!  Or perhaps we are really singing at our best, despite exhaustion, sickness (the SPC plague has hit the group – fever, sore throat, cough,  headache and dizziness) and the heat.  Even when we rehearse, people line up to listen to us.  It is amazing.

 

The Venezuela sound is full of “ponpons” and bim bims”, fast lyrics, romantic words and the epitome of a good chorus is one that can sing “jojopos”, a Venezuelan folk song marked by percussive lower voices.  Since our repertoire includes “Shenandoah” and other lyrical folk songs, our sound is quite different.  The crowd love Negro Spirituals and Gospel music, and in return, it has been delightful hearing groups do this type of music in English with their Spanish accents. 

 

We hardly needed the buses to get us home!  We practically glided on the many accolades and praises from our new American brothers and sisters in song.  We gathered in the cabana to celebrate Kris Zawissa’s 50^th birthday with cake and song.  One group dispersed with Marcello to a seafood restaurant and the rest of us had spaghetti and chicken at 11:00pm.

 

 

 

 

 

June 22, 2007

Friday

Day 4

 

Up early, some with Andy Bereson to the north shore of the island for snorkeling, some of us to the Cloud Forest with Dr. Dan, and the rest to stay at the hotel or explore the town.  Thanks Andy and Dan for arranging these trips.  A few more of us have begun coughing, with sore throat and fever, so several stayed near the pool.  Dennis and I searched for coffee before our trip with Dan, and on our journey, found a Hooters at a nearby mall.  There are many, many US stores and products.  Venezuela imports some 80% of all goods, so their import of Asian and US goods is reflected in what is available.  We rode by taxi to the Cerro de Copey National forest (or the Cloud Forest), a lush tropical area in the mountains near Porlamar for a 2.2 mile (some went further) hike.  We saw fern trees and many tropical plants that were huge:  philadendron, ficus trees, impatiens, and bromeliads.  The road was concrete and ascended to 8,000’.  The views were marvelous, the air was fresh and cooler with strong breezes, and the bird calls were abundant.  What a joy to listen to the great variety of birds and spot many as well.  Recognized birds were:  barred ant shrike, banana quit, chacalate, vultures, red legged honey creepers, vireos, hummingbirds (there are 120 varieties in Venezuela), and several good sightings of the manaquen bird, who has a most interesting mating ritual.  The males present an intricate dance to the females, and mentor one or two juvenile males who join in to make the dance even better.  The female chooses the best dancer, and since the male does not get his adult plumage until he is 9 years old, he’s got lots of years to practice.

 

Rae Wu, Lee Greske, and Rosalyn Schiller continued to the end of the road.  We were told at the outset that we would need to stop 100 m. from the top and that the TV station was off limits.  And so when the 3 women arrived at the end of the road, they were not surprised to see a guard who blocked their way.  But when a group of school children on a field trip lined up to go inside the station, our intrepid trio followed them in.  The station was called Venevision.  They took pictures without any problem.

 

The taxis were waiting when we arrived back to the parking lot and our driver drove us through Anuncion by a different route to let us see other parts of the town that we had missed the night before.  Back to hotel for a lunch of beef strew, arepas (the Venezuelan national bread, a cornmeal patty that is deep fried) and rice.  Carbs, carbs, carbs!  I have been surprised at the lack of fresh fruit (none) and the salads were discontinued after the 2^nd day.  And no desserts!  Ever!  However I must admit that the food does taste good and the staff in the dining room is warm and friendly.

 

Time for a shower before rehearsal (the water was turned on!) and to the bus by 6:00pm.  However, our bus was delayed, and our 6:30 scheduled arrival time at the concert venue came and went and we did not arrive until after 7:00pm.  We missed the first two choral performances, but did hear Universidad de Oriente (a University choir), a children’s choir and a great working class choir from Caracas. This group rehearses during their lunch hours (usually 2 hours daily). 

 

We sang “Si Somos”, always a crowd-pleaser, Shenandoah, Coro de Paz (Doug Balcom’s beautiful composition), Wimohweh and This Little Light of Mine.  We exited the stage still singing with the crowd joining in, and they were all on their feet.  Again, the response was overwhelming. 

 

One man told me, “You have a good message”.  A woman said, “You are like a fresh wind of peace blowing across the land”.  There was much visiting, exchanging names and hugs and kisses all around.

 

Back to the hotel for a dinner of potato salad, a pasta dish,  and white bread! A song exchange session ensued with SPC teaching Si Somos and Shenandoah.  Many parties tonight.  And early to bed for some. 

 

 

June 23, 2007

Saturday

Day 5

 

Up early and to the bus at 7:00am in concert dress.  Grabbed a quick breakfast of cereal bars and juice in the lobby of the hotel.  A hot and sticky day.  Off to an historic church, Eglesia Virgen de Valle, from the 16^th century, for a morning concert of sacred song.  Only a few of the choruses were invited and we were honored to be one of them.    The acoustics were beautiful and the music lovely. 

 

It was beastly hot inside with high humidity, the hottest I have been on the trip so far, or perhaps in my entire life!    My violin bit the dust here, with moisture on the bow and a warped bridge.  We sang Precious Lord, Lacrimosa (with a very squeaky violin accompaniment), and Sicut.  Back to the hotel and free time.  I packed for the next day and Dennis ran support team errands – breakfast for tomorrow, ferry tickets, and phone calls for Jeff Carter.  Rehearsal at 4:30, getting “Let America Be America” ready for tonight.  Then dinner (which was delayed due to cessation of water service at the hotel, so no clean dishes) of sautéed veggies, cabbage salad, white bread, potatoes and beef with mushroom gravy.  Into our hot, formal concert dress and onto the grand finale choral concert.  It was very formal, and everyone was dressed nicely.  It began with a huge opening number including many singers, dancers, instruments and speeches honoring some dignatory music directors, festival personnel, and judges. 

 

Ted and Justin Hunter relaxed on a freshly painted wall on their way into the concert hall, getting white paint all over their black dress pants.  So some last minute preparations – Ted turned his pants inside out, and Dennis loaned Justin his pants – and we were good to go.  We performed at 10:30 pm, the third group, with “Si Somos”, Shenandoah, Louisiana, Let America with percussionists, Lacrimosa a capella, and This Little Light as an encore.  Then presentations were done and awards given.   We took first place in the popular vote, “The People’s Choice” award, for “Si Somos Americanos”.  We were amazed, shocked and honored. Our competition was so stiff!  But the Venezuelans so appreciated our coming and our message of peace and person-to-person diplomacy, a different face of the United States than has been presented in the media.  A very tired and bedraggled group arrived back at the hotel at 1:00am for a few short hours of sleep.

 

The Venezuelans were very respectful of their elder musicians (directors, professors, etc.) and they obviously love their children.  The children were wonderful!  A 4 year old boy knew every word and every note by heart of a long series of welcoming songs and songs celebrating the visiting musicians from Germany, Spain, Finland, Puerto Rico, our group from the US, and of course many areas of Venezuela.  In all, we received 2 soapstone dolphin trophies, a sailing ship, a clam shell, and a wood and metal sculpture.  Poor Fred!  About 20# added to his luggage!